My first day in Kolkata, India, consisted of exiting a plane at the dingy international airport on one side of the city, hailing a cab to take us through the mess of disconnected streets and traffic that included everything from bikers to horse drawn carts to free-ranging cows, and wandering into the largest railway station in all of India. I had been here before. I knew what I was doing. We just needed to book a train north. Sounds easy enough, ...